Sunday, July 26, 2009

Nazca, Huacachina, and Lima

The next day Liz had to head home but we stayed in Cuzco for the day and then took an overnight (15hour!! bus ride to Nazca. I think Nazca was the least exciting thing on our trip but I expected that so it was ok. We didn't take a plane tour because they're a bit expensive and have questionable safety regulations- instead we just took a bus ride out to the lookout tower....which we missed because it was so unimpressive and then had to walk back to it about a 1/4 mile along the Pan Americana which was a pretty funny site. We saw 2 of the figures, the "hands (the one in the picture)" and the "tree" and we saw part of the lizard which they built the Pan Americana right through! Seeing the lines took about 5 minutes but then we had to wait on the side of the road for about an hour until another bus picked us up haha. After we got back to the town of Nazca we took a bus to Huacachina where we went sand surfing- awesome- and stayed the evening.

The town was cute, there was a lake surrounded by palm trees in the middle.

The next day we headed to Lima, got a tour of the down town and had the most amazing seafood meal everrrrr- at what was apparently the most expensive restaurant in Lima, which out taxi driver told us as we got out of the car to go into the restaurant!! The next day Coury and Drea left early and the rest of us just killed time, walked by the beach and then headed out that night. Pretty hard to imagine that we were able to work out such an incredible trip with 7 of our best friends but it was truely a trip of a life time!!

Inca Trail!!!!!

The next morning we started the Inca Trail and honestly it was 4 days of bliss. Ok maybe bliss is strong because we were still doing an intense hike but the views were incredible, the company was awesome, and the food was out of this world!! I mean we are talking practically gourmet meals with tomato flower garnishes made from food and cooking supplies that were carried by the porters the whole time!! It was also really nice not to have to organize anything for 4 days all we had to do was keep walking:) Our first stop along the way was to have breakfast and to buy walking sticks which we were all initially opposed to but I think after the hours downhill/down stairs we were happy to have gotten them! Once we got to the staging area where all the companies were leaving from it became immediately obvious that we had picked the correct company. Our porters all had matching uniforms that were warm enough for the temperatures we would be experiencing, they had actual backpacks for the 60lbs that they had to carry, and they had tennis shoes instead of sandals like many of the other companies. Some of the other companies didn't issue the porters anything! the didn't even have backpacks to help distribute the weight they literally had tarp-like material that they wrapped around everything that they had to carry. Our porters also all traveled together and although I'm sure they would never say they had an easy job they were always smiling and joking around with each other whereas other companies weren't even walking together. I think the porter treatment was an essential part of our happiness with the trip because it would have been awful if we had to watch the porters working in terrible conditions that we essentially put them in for 4 days! Our porters were great though, literally when we got to a camp it was all set up for us, then when we left they packed it up and then RAN ahead so that they could have the next camp set up when we arrived!!

The first day we had a leisurely hike to lunch and then a pretty serious few hours of hiking straight up before we got to the dinner site. The second day we did 2 mountain passes which was pretty tough. Before lunch we hiked to Dead Woman's Pass which was the highest point of the hike at 4100. Then we headed down for about 3 hours before lunch, which I think was the worst part because the steps were huge so it took a lot more control to go down and it was just murder on our joints- thank goodness for the walking sticks, they took a little pressure off. Then after lunch we did another pass and some more downhill but this time it HAILED so that added a bit to the difficulty- luckily though everyone had brought proper rain gear so we didn't have any problems with the rain. That day we did about 12 hours of hiking! and our guides even suggested when we left at the crack of dawn that we bring our headlamps with us in case we had to do the last part of the hike that day in the dark- luckily though we managed to get in before headlamp use was necessary. The third day wasn't as long of a hike, we were at our camp for the night by early afternoon- the biggest difficulty was that we were sore from the previous day. That afternoon we were able to shower!!! so we would be squeaky clean for Machu Picchu and we went to a ruin very close to the camp site but we mostly just hung out and enjoyed all we had accomplished.


The next morning we had to get up at 4 to start the hike to Machu Picchu- we did need our head lamps for that one!! Linnea, Coury, and Andrea took it even further and got up at 3:30 so that they could run to Machu Picchu in hopes of getting tickets to climb Wayna Picchu which is the mountain next to the ruins. This was necessary because they only allow 400 people up there per day and people who do the Inca trail can't usually get to Machu Picchu early enough to get the limited tickets (it's about a 2 hour hike in the morning/a 1 hour run). The girls didn't actually end up getting the tickets but since some people who got tickets didn't climb they were able to do the climb- thankfully after all that!!!!


Machu Picchu of course was incredible but it honestly felt a little anticlimactic because we hiked for 3 days to get there but we were only there for about 5 hours so it seemed a little unbalanced but the overall experience was still unbelievable! After that we had lunch and hung out in Aguas Calientes (although we didn't go in the gross springs) and then took a train back to Cuzco that evening. That was the only night that we went out though just to a club for a few hours but we were so exhausted it didn't last too long.

Cuzco

Next we went to Cuzco- we got into Cuzco around 5 in the morning so we went to the hostel that we had booked for the next evening...but we didn't have a reservation for that night so they let us sleep in the attic on the floor for a few hours haha. We had lunch at an amazing Australian owned place called Jack's that had been my saving grace when I was last in Cuzco- I think everyone was pleased with the huge burgers after the sometimes meager servings we got in Bolivia. Next we headed up to Sacsayhauman for a horse tour of the ruins at the top of the city. There are 4 different sites that we were able to visit. First was Sacsayhauman which was the biggest of the sites, now it's only about 20% authentic because the Spaniards tour down most of it and used the stones throughout Cuzco on their homes and churches. Our guide showed us a bunch of animal forms that were made with the stones in the walls of the ruins like llamas, snakes, pumas, etc (the picture is of a llama). Some of them really seemed like they might be intentional but others seemed like a pretty big stretch and that if you looked hard enough you could make out the shapes of animals anywhere- so I guess you have to be your own judge on that one as to whether the Incans really intended to make those shapes or whether archaeologists just wanted them to have done that.
Next we got off our horses (because they weren't allowed near the sites) and took a collectivo on the road to Tambomachay, which is a ritual bath site that the Incans made out of channeling natural springs. In Spanish it's called "El Bano del Inca." Next we walked down to Pukapukara, "the red fort," which was probably a staging center for the bigger ritual sites in the area or as a stopping place for travellers. It's known as the least important of the sites...and it was haha.
Then we hopped back on the horses and finished the horse part of the tour which ended at Q'engo which means "zigzag" in Quechua. It was used for ritual sacrifices involving chicha or potential blood. It was also maybe a burial place for lesser nobles. After we got back from the ruins we went to a great dinner in the main plaza in Cuzco and then headed to bed.

Our next day in Cuzco we took it easy and did a lot of shopping. We amusingly got a picture with the "Inca" a guy who dressed up and pointed out a stone that had 12 sides- the most sides of any of the building stones in the Incan empire...and then he expected tips for pointing it out if you looked. That night we had an Inca Trail prep meeting where we got to meet our guides and the rest of our alllll female group. The meeting sufficiently scared us so we were ready to get home and get some sleep in preparation for our upcoming trek!! Unfortunately the laundromat that we had sent our clothes to hooooours earlier had a different plan so we didn't get our laundry back until 11:30 pm so after packing we didn't get to bed as early as we had hoped.







Saturday, July 25, 2009

The floating islands



After that we headed to Puno which is on the Peruvian side of the lake and from there we took a tour of the floating islands which were suppppper cool! They are man-made islands made out of the roots of reeds with reeds piled on top- crazy! The island we went to had about 50 people living there 7 or 8 families. We are pretty sure building a Kappa island for retirement purposes is a must!! We also got to take a ride on one of their boats that kind of looks like it was built by the Vikings because they have dragon heads on one side- so funny!

La Paz and Isla del Sol

Then we headed back to La Paz and met Liz- she wasn't able to take off as much time as everyone else but she was there for the best parts I think. We also got to meet her cousin who lives in La Paz and she introduced us to a lovely restaurant district where we enjoyed the first night back in La Paz.
The next day we went to Tiwanacu a major site close to La Paz- it is the main city of the biggest pre-Incan culture. Later that day we also went to the witches market which was very creepy- they had llama fetuses all over the place for sale for rituals. Linnea walked into one of he stores and saw women pulling apart llama fat as an offering to pachamama, mother earth- eek!
After a day in La Paz we went to Copacabana which is on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca. We only had lunch there and then we took a boat ride to Isla del Sol where we spent the night. We also took a little side trip to Isla de la Luna, where there was an Incan temple for virgins- they used to keep them there before they sacrificed them- yikes!! The view was incredible and so was the trout but...that was pretty much it for the island.
The morning of the day that we left we did a hike from the north side of the island where we were staying to the south where there were supposed to be a"significant" archeologic site. The hike took about 4 hours- there were some truely incredible views becuase the backdrop of the lake is snow capped mountains but the water looks like deep carribean bluewater- quite the combination. However, the "archeologic site" wasn't so impressive, we saw the Sacred Rock- which we weren't able to differenciate from any other rock without guidance and there were some old Incan buildings that were falling apart...and that was it haha so the hike was definitely the highlight.

Potosi

Next we went to Potosi, which is a mining town where we were able to take a tour of the mines. It was a great experience but very intense. Physically it was almost impossible to breath because there was soooo much dust and not to mension we were at 4100m! and we had to do a lot of climbing inside the mines, including ladders that they said oh dont go on steps 1, 5, and 7 becuase they're broken haha. It was also pretty mentally trying too because we saw really young kids (as young as 13) in the mines who were working 24 hour shifts. Oh and also Josepha had a panic attack mid mine shaft haha because she's so tall and she was all claustrophobic and having a hard time breathing haha so our guide had to calm her down so we could move on. It was very interesting to hear about the mining culture which seems to be one completely of its own. They have parties in the mines and the miners also "worship" Tio the god of the underworld while they are in the mines but our guide said that outside of the mines they were all serious Catholics, which is an interesting idea.

Before we went into the mines we got coca leavs and soda to give to the miners that we saw in the mines. We only saw 2 but they were both very young, the 13 year old that we saw said that he would be working a 24 hour shift in which he might leave once to have lunch for an hour or maybe not because he had soda and coca leaves which are an appetite supressant. The second miner that we saw was showing us minerals that he had found and he pointed out lead- you should have seen Linnea's face of panic upon hearing that! We were ready to get out of there after hearing that!!


When we did get out of the mines we had a bit of fun with the dynamite that we had gotten and the Barbia our guide got for us- when our friend Dave did the mine tour they demonstrated the use of dynamite IN THE MINES but luckily we just blew up our doll outside when we were all way out of range of it! Although it was a bit trying I am really glad we did it, it was definitely eye opening!





La Paz and Uyuni

Our first destination was La Paz, there Jenni, Linnea, and I and met up with Coury and Drea who had already been there for a day. La Paz was quite nice, it was actually better than I expected, mostly because Colombians and I think all of South America is very prejudice against Bolivians so they had given us lower expectations than were warrented if they had ever actually been there. However other than a few churches there wasn't very much to see. It also isn't safe at night so we didn't experience any of the night life the first time we were in La Paz.


After that we headed to Uyuni where we met up with Kelsey and Jo (they had been traveling around northern Argentina for about 10 days since their lease was up mid-month) and did a 3 day Jeep tour of the Bolivian highlands. The first day we went to the salt flats, which are just what they sound like salt as far as the eye can see (it used to be a lake), which is pretty sureal. They're also really cool because you can take perspective pictures where you can't really tell how far apart people are because the backdrop is all the same.







Then the next two days we spent looking at lakes (some had flamingos!! I didn't know that flamingos could live in cold environments but apparently yes because it was TOTALLY freezing there!!), going through some kind of deserty landscape. During the evenings we stayed in 5 house (or less) towns with 2 hours of electricity at night and no showers haha hard to imagine our friends loving that but it was great!!